Where better to spend a winter’s night than in an atmospheric Scottish castle?
The Traitors Tue 9.30pm, Wed 9.15pm Thu 9.00pm BBC1
Ed Grenby - 24 November 2022
Dark corners, secret staircases, flickering shadows and creaking floorboards – a historic Highland castle was the obvious location for BBC1’s new intrigue-and-suspicion-riddled challenge show The Traitors. The twisty format, fronted by Claudia Winkle- man, sees two teams (“the Faithful” and “the Traitors”) competing in “a nail-biting psycho- logical adventure game” – where the Traitors, of course, are working secretly against the Faithful and no one knows who to trust.
The series was filmed within the gloomily atmospheric old walls and rambling grounds of Ardross Castle, 25 miles north of Inverness. The imposing 19th-century pile is available to hire for weddings and events, but not, alas, to stay in. However, anyone who wants to indulge their laird-and-lady fantasies has plenty of other Scottish castles to choose from...
BARCALDINE CASTLE
NEAR OBAN, ARGYLL
Which room do you want to sleep in? Why, the turret room, of course! The trouble is, so does everyone else – though that’s not a problem at Barcaldine. Part of each of the six bedrooms sits beneath one of the three “witch’s hat” turrets (though the original, feet-thick stone walls ensure plenty of privacy). Despite its ominous traditional name, “the Black Castle” – since it was built by “Black” Duncan Campbell in 1609 – it’s about as peaceful as you can get. Standing on the shores of serene Loch Creran, it has views out to the snow-dusted peaks of Glencoe; and, just an hour or so away, is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, as seen in the Harry Potter films. Doubles from £130, bed and breakfast (barcaldinecastle.co.uk)
DALHOUSIE CASTLE
BONNYRIGG, NEAR EDINBURGH
Those of a nervous disposition might want to avoid the dining room: the Dungeon Restaurant is pure drama, with flickering candles, a barrel-vaulted ceiling and proper Scooby-Doo suits of armour standing to (faintly alarming, heavily-armed) attention. But stay above ground and this 700-year-old fortress beside the River Esk is much more relaxing. A pair of red-carpeted staircases climb to 29 bedrooms stuffed with elegant mahogany furniture, rich swagged curtains and (in some cases) grand four-posters – though it’s best not to take too many drams with dinner, as finding your room involves navigating a maze of staircases and secret passages. Previous guests Edward I, Sir Walter Scott, Oliver Cromwell and Queen Victoria might not have been able to enjoy the splendid spa, but they all surely appreciated Dalhousie’s proximity to Edinburgh, which is just eight miles away. Doubles from £142, bed, breakfast and dinner (dalhousiecastle.co.uk)
DAIRSIE CASTLE
NEAR ST ANDREWS, FIFE
Live like a lord – but without all those troublesome serving-folk cluttering up the place – at Dairsie, Scotland’s self- catering castle. Built around 1160, and with a history that weaves in secret Scottish parliaments, bloody sieges and a fleeing monarch (James VI and I in 1583), this is a quirky little citadel. Exteriors are a mix of medieval rockwork and traditional harled red sandstone. Inside, it retains the stone-flagged great hall with a vast, wood-burning fireplace and minstrels’ gallery, but also modern design and comforts: exposed beams, hardwood floors, recessed lighting, underfloor heating and an unexpected collection of art, sculpture and carvings by contemporary local artists. You’re handy for the Fife coast and its excellent walks and golf courses, but the USP here is that, with no staff on site, you and your clan (with six bedrooms, it sleeps 14) can roam the halls and six acres of grounds – or feast and make merry with your guests – at will. Whole-property rents from £2,800 a week, or £2,200 for three nights (dairsiecastle.com)
GLENAPP CASTLE
BALLANTRAE, AYRSHIRE
A “newcomer” – in that it’s 19th-century rather than, say, 12th – Glenapp is a Victorian fairy tale of a fortress, all ivy-wrapped towers with Rapunzel windowpanes. The grounds are fantasy-fodder, too: the glen walk wends round the castle’s arboretum, beside waterfalls, across bridges and between giantspreadingsequoias(youcanborrow wellies if you haven’t provided for the Ayrshire weather and failed to bring your own). Even better is curling up by the fire, post-walk: each of the 17 suites has its own fireplace, but the best of all is downstairs in the library – with a lovely, age-worn leather Winchester sofa waiting for you beside it. Doubles from £345, bed and breakfast (gleanappcastle.com)
ED GRENBY